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Ubud, the Heart of Bali: A Journey Filled with Nature, Spirit and Art

17 Eyl 2025

7 min read

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Ubud, in the heart of Bali, is a hidden world amidst lush forests, rice paddies, small temples, and the slow flow of time. When you first arrive, you'll feel: "I need to stay here for a while." Because Ubud doesn't just welcome you; it embraces you, calms you, and introduces you to yourself.


1. Tegalalang Rice Terraces: Beyond the Landscape


Waking up around 7 or 8 a.m. and motoring towards this location, the morning rush of the small villagers along the roadside makes you feel like you're in a movie. Tegalalang isn't just a thousand shades of green; it's also a testament to the Balinese people's reverence for the land.

These terraces are irrigated by Bali's traditional Subak irrigation system. Subak is not just an irrigation system; it's also a philosophy of life based on community, harmony, and respect for nature. It's no wonder it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Freshwater from the mountains is transported to the village rice fields via canals. Each village's fields are managed by a Subak community. This community collectively determines who receives the water, when it reaches them, and for how long. No one makes decisions alone. Everything is based on shared wisdom and fair sharing. So, it's not just water that's shared, but also a sense of unity. For the Balinese, water is a blessing from the gods. Therefore, every region of the Subak system has a Pura Subak (Subak temple). Farmers pray here for fertility, health, and harmony. Agriculture here isn't just a physical practice; it's a spiritual ritual.



2. Ubud Monkey Forest: A Temple in the Forest

While walking in central Ubud, you suddenly see a sign that says "Monkey Forest." At the entrance, you're greeted by thick tree trunks, small statues hidden among them, and the curious gazes of monkeys. It's truly another world. The monkeys act like they own the place—and they do.

The "Sacred Monkey Temple Forest" is a spiritual and natural site for the Balinese. It contains three ancient Hindu temples:

Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal (temple of rituals related to death and rebirth)

Pura Beji (holy water temple used for spiritual cleansing)

Pura Prajapati (temple associated with funeral ceremonies)




3. Pura Puseh Batuan: Bali's Memory Engraved in Stone

About 10 kilometers south of Ubud, upon arrival in the village of Batuan, a structure greets you at the entrance with its imposing and detailed stone carvings: Pura Puseh Batuan. This temple is more than just a place of worship; it's an open-air museum, showcasing Bali's artistic, spiritual, and stonemasonry all at once.



4. Tegenungan Waterfall: Surrendering to the Water

It's about a 25-minute motorbike ride away. After passing the stairs leading down, the sound of rushing water beckons you. You can swim here, but be careful; the water is strong.

If you arrive early, it won't be crowded, and you can sit in front of the waterfall for a long time, just staring at the water without thinking about anything else. In a sense, the water washes away all the noise.



5. Pura Besakih – Temple of the Mother of Bali: Experience the Peak of Spirit

As you head east from Ubud and reach the foothills of Mount Agung, you'll truly be greeted by the most sacred temple at the heart of Balinese culture: Pura Besakih. Known as the "Mother Temple," this temple is Bali's primary temple.

Considered sacred since pre-ancient times, Besakih's origins date back approximately 2,000 years. It was used for Hindu worship from 1284 onwards, and by the 15th century, with the Gelgel period, it became Bali's central temple. The temple's overall architecture reflects the Tri Hita Karana philosophy: the necessity of a balanced life between humans, nature, and the gods.



6. Ubud Art Market: More Than Shopping

Ubud Market is quieter in the mornings and busier in the evenings. Handmade jewelry, bamboo bags, wooden masks, batik dresses—everything is handmade. Prices are a bit touristy, but you can bargain.



When I chatted with a shop owner, he said, "Every mask has a spirit. Sometimes it calls to you." So, before you buy anything, look and listen. Maybe there will be a piece that calls to you...


7. Tirta Gangga: The Palace Where Water Whispers


We set out early one morning in Bali. Along the way, rice paddies, palm trees, smiling villagers… Then we came upon a fairytale garden: Tirta Gangga. This isn't just a palace; it's like a dream built on water. Tirta Gangga was built by the Karangasem royal family in 1946. Its name means "Water of the Ganges" and refers to the sacred Ganges River in India, as these waters are considered sacred to the Balinese people.



8. Tirta Empul Temple: The Silent Story of Purification

Tucked away in the heart of Bali, near lush Ubud, lies a sacred site: Tirta Empul Temple. It's not just a temple; it's a place where people have bathed and purified themselves with hope, gratitude, and prayer for thousands of years. Tirta Empul means "holy boiling water" in Sanskrit. Indeed, the spring at the center of the temple still naturally gushes from underground. Built in 962, it's a center for purification rituals in the Hindu faith. The temple's most captivating feature is the long stone pools, which contain nearly 30 fountains. Visitors line up and dip their heads under each fountain to make a wish. Each stream carries a different meaning: one symbolizes health, one represents abundance, one represents love, and one symbolizes the removal of negative energies.



  1. Lempuyang Temple: A Silent Prayer at Heaven's Gate

If someone asks me where the closest place to the sky in Bali is, my answer is clear: Lempuyang Temple. This sacred temple, called "Pura Luhur Lempuyang" by the locals, fascinates not only with its view but also with its atmosphere that touches your soul. Lempuyang is one of Bali's six most sacred temples. Perched on a mountaintop over 1,000 meters high. Its name means "The Path to God's Light." Indeed, reaching it requires patience, intention, and a little breathing space. The famous "Gates of Heaven" at the temple entrance is now known worldwide. Mount Agung rises from the gate, and a photo taken at the right time resembles a portal to another dimension. But the best part is this: Even as you line up for a photo, people are quiet, respectful, and peaceful.



  1. Penglipuran Village: Bali's Village Frozen in Time

Penglipuran, a small but magical village in the Bangli region of central Bali, is home to a tranquil village that evokes a sense of peace the moment you hear its name. It's not just the cleanest village in Bali, but one of the cleanest and most organized villages in the world. But it's not just the cleanliness that makes Penglipuran special; time truly seems to stand still here. Everything is so natural, so simple, and so welcoming that you feel like you're living in the Bali of centuries past.

The houses in the village are almost identical. They are all built in traditional Balinese architecture and arranged in the same order. It's as if a hand has measured and placed everything. As you walk along the narrow stone streets, colorful flowers, temples, and courtyards greet you. The doors of the houses are always ajar, because respect for guests is a tradition here. The villagers, their eyes shining with smiles, invite you into their gardens and offer you Balinese coffee. That's when you realize this village isn't just a tourist attraction; it's a living cultural treasure.



What to Eat and Where to Drink in Ubud: A Traveler's Intimate Taste Guide



Ubud... One of the most peaceful corners not only in Bali, but perhaps in the world. Everyone who comes here loves to meditate amidst the rice fields, drink smoothies after morning yoga, and discover local flavors at sunset. Whether you're backpacking or traveling with an open heart, the question "Where can I eat well?" has already crossed your mind. Here are some suggestions that perfectly suit the wanderlust:


1. Warung Biah Biah


Cheap – Authentic – Filling

A popular spot for travelers in the heart of Ubud. Prices are reasonable, portions are generous, and the flavors are traditional. Don't leave without trying Nasi Campur (a variety of Balinese delicacies in one plate). You might even strike up a conversation with another traveler at the table next to you.


2. Zest Ubud


Vegan friendly – Sustainable – Peaceful

If you're into healthy eating or just want to stay away from meat for a while, this is your paradise. A meditative breakfast among the trees: vegan bowl, cold-pressed juice, and coconut pizza! The Wi-Fi is fast, perfect for solo travelers.


3. Ibu Oka – Babi Guling


Local experience – For meat lovers

If you want to try Bali's famous "Babi Guling" (spicy roast pork), this is the most popular place. Go early in the morning, as everything sells out before noon. It's always crowded with backpackers.


4. Seniman Coffee Studio


Coffee – Laptop – Inspiration

A good cup of coffee is essential for a traveler to recharge their batteries. One of the best coffees in Ubud is here. Aeropress, cold brew, espresso—you name it. Plus, the comfortable seating areas are perfect for jotting down notes or blogging.


My favorite is Sayuri Healing Food.

To Nourish Your Body and Soul in Ubud...

Walking through the streets of Ubud, a faint scent of incense, slow music, and the sweet and sour aroma of fermented foods suddenly hit your nose. That's likely where Sayuri Healing Food is. It's not just a cafe; it's also a healing space, a meeting point, and sometimes a stop on an inner journey. In short, a place where a traveler comes to their senses. Sayuri was founded by Japanese chef Sayuri Tanaka. She's a pioneer of raw-vegan cuisine and has transformed it into a culinary school and a living space, much like a wellness center. The menu features uncooked, yet rich, nutritious, fermented, and probiotic-filled foods. They're healing, not burdensome.


So......Where to stay?


BUDGET-FRIENDLY & HYENA SPIRIT


In Da Lodge

Price: 150K – 250K IDR (approx. 10-15 USD, dorm rooms)

What's on: Community pool, backpacker friendly atmosphere, hot showers, hammocks.

Location: 10 minutes walking distance to the center.


Note: Young travellers' favourite social hostel!



WW Backpackers

Price: 100K – 180K IDR

What's available: Simple but spotlessly clean dormitories, breakfast included, warm and family-run.

Location: On a quiet street, close to yoga centers.


Note: Away from the crowds, ideal for introverted travelers.


MEDIUM LEVEL – BALANCE OF NATURE & COMFORT


Green Field Hotel and Restaurant

Price: 500K – 800K IDR (approximately 30-50 USD)

What's on offer: Rooms with rice field views, pool, yoga area, amazing breakfast.

Location: Walking distance to Monkey Forest.


Note: For those who want simple luxury and nature together.


Alaya Resort Ubud

Price: around 1M IDR (approximately 60 USD)

What's on: Spa, pool, natural bamboo architecture, organic restaurant.

Location: Close to the city center but once you get inside it's a paradise.


Note: For couples and those who like silence.


FOR THOSE WHO WANT TO REST THEIR SOUL

Bali Spirit Hotel & Spa

Price: 700K – 1M IDR

What's on: Yoga spaces, spa, outdoor shower, tropical jungle feel.

Location: Near Sedona Spa, surrounded by nature.


Note: Perfect for travelers who want to be alone, write, and breathe.



17 Eyl 2025

7 min read

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